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aug 2010 781a
Originally uploaded by manekko
Look! someone else is knitting my (free) scarf pattern on Ravelry! Here is the link if you want to download it (warning: fairly advanced knitting skillz required): download the PDF file now
aug 2010 781a
Originally uploaded by manekko
Double lattice pattern
Mar. 6th, 2008 04:26 pm
I finally took a picture of this pattern, I've had this swatch for a year now probably.
( Bird's Eye and Spiderling Lace )
These are two patterns from Sharon Miller's Heirloom Knitting. You'll see a lot of erasures near the bottom (the pattern is knitted from the bottom up) as I tried to figure out what was going on in these patterns.
One consequence of graphing out these patterns is that I've noticed some errors in the Heirloom Knitting book, for example, the photograph of Spiderling Lace shows the wrong side of the fabric, not that there really is a wrong side, but it's not the side of the fabric that shows in the chart.
It feels almost like calligraphy exercises to write out these charts. I'm trying to make them in a CAD program, but there's something about pencil on paper that's very soothing.
These are two patterns from Sharon Miller's Heirloom Knitting. You'll see a lot of erasures near the bottom (the pattern is knitted from the bottom up) as I tried to figure out what was going on in these patterns.
One consequence of graphing out these patterns is that I've noticed some errors in the Heirloom Knitting book, for example, the photograph of Spiderling Lace shows the wrong side of the fabric, not that there really is a wrong side, but it's not the side of the fabric that shows in the chart.
It feels almost like calligraphy exercises to write out these charts. I'm trying to make them in a CAD program, but there's something about pencil on paper that's very soothing.
New Lace Knitting Diagram
Jul. 30th, 2007 11:32 am( Using the diagramming method on a complex lace-knitted edging. )
I love this kind of thing. This is a representation of a knitting stitch pattern that is close in appearance to the actual knitting... if knitting existed in Flatland. I could knit from this diagram... but I'm not sure if anyone else could.
I create this diagram from a graph of the knitting pattern, so this is an intermediate representation of sorts.
To convert this diagram to a 3-d representation of knitting (or the knitted piece itself) would require more information. This diagram doesn't keep track of which are knit stitches and which are purl stitches.
Also, in the diagram the knitted decreases are ambiguous. When you knit a decrease you're pulling a loop through two or more loops from the previous row. One of the loops from the previous row ends up on top of the fabric, partially covering the other loop or loops. It's not shown which loop of the previous knitted row ends up on the top of the fabric.
On the other hand, Shetland lace knitters' directions were at about this level of information... you got a list of Knit stitches, Make 1's and Narrows, and the fabric was implied garter stitch. If you're knitting something with the extremely fine yarn and small needles that the Shetland lace knitters used, it doesn't much matter which knitted decrease you use, the decreases are so tiny.
I love this kind of thing. This is a representation of a knitting stitch pattern that is close in appearance to the actual knitting... if knitting existed in Flatland. I could knit from this diagram... but I'm not sure if anyone else could.
I create this diagram from a graph of the knitting pattern, so this is an intermediate representation of sorts.
To convert this diagram to a 3-d representation of knitting (or the knitted piece itself) would require more information. This diagram doesn't keep track of which are knit stitches and which are purl stitches.
Also, in the diagram the knitted decreases are ambiguous. When you knit a decrease you're pulling a loop through two or more loops from the previous row. One of the loops from the previous row ends up on top of the fabric, partially covering the other loop or loops. It's not shown which loop of the previous knitted row ends up on the top of the fabric.
On the other hand, Shetland lace knitters' directions were at about this level of information... you got a list of Knit stitches, Make 1's and Narrows, and the fabric was implied garter stitch. If you're knitting something with the extremely fine yarn and small needles that the Shetland lace knitters used, it doesn't much matter which knitted decrease you use, the decreases are so tiny.
More knitting diagrams
Jul. 26th, 2007 12:01 pmThis one's more complicated. There is shaping on every row, and the fabric is more open than the last one.
( Stanfield Pattern 193 )
( Stanfield Pattern 193 )
Blogged with Flock
( knitting diagram )
This is pattern 196 in Lesley Stanfield's The New Knitting Stitch Library. There are a few mistakes in the diagram. This is the first time using my new graph paper for creating these diagrams.
In essence, this diagram shows you the path the yarn takes in an idealized (simplified) version of a knitting stitch pattern. It contains no height (depth) information, though, so there's no way to know a knit stitch from a purl stitch. Still, it's good for showing the structure of a knitted lace stitch pattern.
( Thumbnail picture of fabric and thumbnail picture of instructions. )
So, finally I am posting a knitting pattern I designed and knitted up in 1992. Gee, it only took me fifteen years. It's a lace mesh that has hearts in it if you look kinda close. Happy belated Valentine's Day! I leave it to you to decide what kind of project it would be good for. I have never used it in anything except the swatch. Basically, I'm more interested in fabrics than garments, if you know what I mean.
The picture of the knitting is a scan I did long ago, so I'm not sure about what the yarn was or anything. I'm pretty sure that it was worsted-weight, and it's gotta be wool, because it was stretched and blocked.
I don't have the pattern written out in words, since I prefer graphs to written directions both for knitting and for designing knitting stitch patterns. And I'm sorry that the link is to a big ol' JPEG file (something like 300 K when you click through to the original file). Somewhere in one of my old computers I have a PDF of this pattern, but I can't find it. So I had to scan a printed copy that I have kept over the years.
Here's some of the more unusual stitches written out. Some of my abbreviations in the written pattern are a little cryptic*:
*These instructions presuppose that you are using the more common (Western) stitch mount when you knit.
So, finally I am posting a knitting pattern I designed and knitted up in 1992. Gee, it only took me fifteen years. It's a lace mesh that has hearts in it if you look kinda close. Happy belated Valentine's Day! I leave it to you to decide what kind of project it would be good for. I have never used it in anything except the swatch. Basically, I'm more interested in fabrics than garments, if you know what I mean.
The picture of the knitting is a scan I did long ago, so I'm not sure about what the yarn was or anything. I'm pretty sure that it was worsted-weight, and it's gotta be wool, because it was stretched and blocked.
I don't have the pattern written out in words, since I prefer graphs to written directions both for knitting and for designing knitting stitch patterns. And I'm sorry that the link is to a big ol' JPEG file (something like 300 K when you click through to the original file). Somewhere in one of my old computers I have a PDF of this pattern, but I can't find it. So I had to scan a printed copy that I have kept over the years.
Here's some of the more unusual stitches written out. Some of my abbreviations in the written pattern are a little cryptic*:
- 5-to-1 decrease: Slip 2 stitches knit wise (separately), slip the next two stitches as if to knit 2 together. Insert the left needle into the front of the 4 slipped stitches and knit together. Pass the worked stitch to the left needle and pass the next stitch over, then return the worked stitch to the right needle.
- Left twist: Slip 2 stitches knit wise (separately), transfer the stitches back to the left needle, then knit the second stitch from the end of the left needle in the back loop, then, before removing the stitches from the left needle, knit 2 together through the back loop. (You can work this however you want, but this way mirrors the right twist that I like to do.)
- 3-to-3 X twist: Slip 1 knit wise, Slip 2 as if to knit 2 together. Insert the left needle into the front of the 3 slipped stitches; knit 3 together, then yarn over, knit 3 together into the 3 slipped stitches before removing the left needle.
- 3-to-3 Y twist: Slip 2 stitches as if to knit 2 together, slip 1 knitwise; insert the left needle into the front of the 3 slipped stitches; knit 3 together, yarnover, knit 3 together into the 3 slipped stitches before removing the left needle.
*These instructions presuppose that you are using the more common (Western) stitch mount when you knit.
